The year 2017 marked a significant moment in the history of Yves Saint Laurent. Anthony Vaccarello, the newly appointed creative director, presented his first collection for the house, a Fall/Winter 2017 Ready-to-Wear show that sent shockwaves through the fashion world. While the complete collection showcased a bold vision, a significant element – the robes – deserve individual analysis, as they encapsulate the designer's reimagining of the iconic Saint Laurent aesthetic and the broader direction he set for the brand. This exploration delves into the specifics of the Saint Laurent Fall 2017 robes, examining their design, impact, and the broader context within the complete Saint Laurent Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear collection, contrasting it with the preceding Spring 2017 collection and establishing its lasting legacy.
The Saint Laurent Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear collection, as documented extensively on Vogue Runway, was a departure from the more overtly romantic and bohemian styles sometimes associated with the brand's past. Vaccarello, known for his sharp tailoring and sleek silhouettes, infused the Saint Laurent DNA with a distinctly modern, powerful, and often overtly sexualized aesthetic. This was evident not only in the sharply cut jackets and trousers but also, and perhaps most strikingly, in the robes. Unlike the flowing, perhaps more traditionally conceived robes of previous eras, Vaccarello’s designs were architectural, assertive statements. They were not garments of casual ease, but rather powerful pieces of clothing that demanded attention.
Saint Laurent Fall 2017 Ready & the Redefinition of the Robe:
The robes within the Saint Laurent RTW Fall 2017 collection were far from the demure dressing gowns one might expect. They were sculpted, often featuring strong shoulders, cinched waists, and dramatic lengths. The fabrics chosen – often luxurious silks and satins – emphasized the inherent sensuality of the garments while simultaneously highlighting their structured silhouettes. The colour palette tended towards the dark and dramatic: deep blacks, rich burgundies, and midnight blues, further enhancing the powerful and mysterious aura of the robes. These were not garments for lounging; they were garments for making a statement. They represented a confident, almost aggressive femininity, a key element that Vaccarello seemed determined to establish as a cornerstone of his Saint Laurent vision.
The construction of these robes played a vital role in their impact. Instead of relying on loose, flowing fabrics, Vaccarello employed techniques that emphasized sharp lines and precise tailoring. This precision, combined with the luxurious fabrics, created a sense of opulence that was both modern and undeniably glamorous. The detailing, while minimal, was impactful. Deep V-necks, strategically placed slits, and subtle embellishments added to the overall effect, hinting at a sensuality that was never overtly explicit but powerfully implied.
Contrasting with Saint Laurent Spring 2017 Ready & Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2017:
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